Friday, October 14, 2016

Questo e Quello: Week of October 10


Monday, October 10

I went to see my PT guy and I had clearly done too much walking my first two days off crutches. Everything (except, strangely, the knee) felt sore, from the plantar fasciitis to the aching hip. Federico (and his wonderful assistant, Claudia) got me pretty much straightened out, and afterwards Brad and I had a nice dinner at Da Trani near Piazza del Popolo.


Tuesday, October 11

On a colder and rainy Tuesday, we went shopping at Coin, a big department store a little north of here in Parioli. It has everything from fancy shoes to groceries in the basement.





We had lunch at Ristorante 3 Quarti (they make these great little rolls from pizza dough stuffed with various delicious things, like anchovies and mozzarella). 

3 quarti
We got talking to two young women, one from Northern Ireland and one from London. Much to the chagrin of her Irish friend, the Londoner had voted for Brexit. She defended her decision—and resented what she said was the lecturing she encountered about it—because of the problems with immigration that she felt existed. 

Natalie, pro-Brexit Londoner, and Stacey, anti-Brexit from Northern Ireland
That put me in mind of an Italian man we’ve become friendly with here. His sister (they both grew up in Rome) has lived in London for almost 20 years. She is a history professor with the London branch of a U.S. university, is married to a Londoner and has a teenage daughter who was born there. Now, when she goes out with Italian friends, she is harassed by other people in restaurants. An American (!) who lives in her building even told her she should go back where she came from. She is completely uncertain whether she will even be allowed to remain, notwithstanding her family and connections. Very alarming and something that doesn’t seem to be reported in the press!

In what could be a complication in our plans, we got an email from our tenants in Seattle that they wished to break the lease (they were renting our place while they put a new story on their house but the estimate increased so much, they had to cancel the project)! 

Wednesday, October 12

Spent several hours making plans to re-lease the condo. Fingers crossed. Had a wonderful Italian lesson with Walter. On a cold day, I took a walk by myself down nearby Via Banchi Vecchi and picked up some suppli (an Italian street food made with rice) for later. 





We had dinner that night with Billy Tubbs and Elletra Paparella, a delightful young couple traveling around Italy. He is a Boeing engineer in Seattle who was in our Dante Alighieri Italian class. She is from the countryside outside Milan (where her parents ran a drug rehabilitation center for 30 years) and was au pairing in Seattle when they met. They have been to Milan, Venice, Lake Como (hiked into Switzerland), and were headed to Naples next. First, we had the suppli with some tomatoes and wine at home, and then went to a favorite little restaurant nearby, Alfredo e Ada, for dinner. 


We walked back home across the bridge, always lovely. 


A great night!  

Thursday, October 13

Another planning day at home. We only ventured out that night after making dinner at home, wandering around the Borgo near St. Peter’s. Rome is always interesting, from the street corner Madonnas to the shops selling articoli religiosi (I think I might get my St. Brigid a crown for her feast day...). 



Friday, October 14

Took a way-too-expensive tax ride to Galleria Porta di Roma, a huge mall on the north side of the city. Wandered through an enormous Ikea (even more exhausting when nothing is in English—just Swedish and Italian), a big electronics and housewares store, and a gigantic general merchandise place. Had a surprisingly good meal at the restaurant in the mall. (Must try to make lupini beans, which were in my delicious salatone.) Brought home lots of important, everyday loot (like a bathroom scale, a good hair dryer, some storage containers, etc.)


A new bathroom scale: Gotta keep tabs on all that pasta we've been eating ... 

Brad, on right, with our new rolling grocery bag... 




Sunday, October 9, 2016

Old Friends, Gratitude, and Pomegranates


Saturday, October 8 was my first day walking without crutches. I had cheated and walked a little bit the night before and then walked a bit around the house and did my PT exercises during the day. All to be ready for a night on the town with old friends from New York, Jobie Shally and her husband, Dan LaBelle. Jobie was a colleague at the New York City law firm, Shearman & Sterling, where Brad and I met. She and Dan were in Rome for one night on their way back to New York City after a week-long trip to the Amalfi coast. They came for a glass of wine on the terrace at our house and then we walked down Via Banchi Vecchi to Piazza Navona. 


To get out of a sudden downpour (all too frequent in Roman autumns, we are finding) we ducked into a little place on the square for appetizers. Once the rain stopped, we talked a little further to Camp dei Fiori for dinner and reminiscing about old times.


On Sunday, October 9, we went to Mass at Caravita as usual. The priest had a good sermon (“gratitude is the parent of all other virtues”) and was given a Lampedusa https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lampedusa cross by the congregation. The crosses are wooden, made by a local carpenter from boats wrecked off that Sicilian island, which has been a major transit point for thousands of migrants since the early 2000s. 


We had lunch again at the restaurant on Piazza di Sant’Ignazio. It was a lovely warm day with pomegranates still growing on the trees around the square. 


We took our time walking home, and on the way back, stopped at the rooftop bar at Hotel Raphael just off Piazza Navona (we had intended to take Jobie and Dan there the night before but it was closed that night for a private party). Wonderful views of Rome!